Evening flight from Heathrow with Ethiopia Airways via Addis Ababa. Short transit time in Addis Ababa for connecting flight to Sana'a

Arrive Sana'a airport and transfer to the Mercure hotel for one night. In the afternoon we have a tour through the capital’s enchanting old city medina. The medieval stone tower-houses are an architectural gem, and the smells and sounds of the old souk straight from the bible. Welcome dinner in a traditional restaurant (B,D)

Leaving Sana'a, we start our tour at Wadi Dahr to visit the towering old palace of Imam Yahya, built on an isolated rock, with spectacular views across the plateau. We also visit the great mosque of Shibam and ancient Thulla, an excellent example of Yemeni architecture in rock and stone. We continue to the mountain village of Al Mahweet with its superb vistas and stunning location. Overnight at the Al Mahweet hotel with dinner (B,D)

This entire area is dotted with dramatically sited traditional mountain villages and we have the option this morning to enjoy a gentle walk to view them. We return to Mahweet for lunch before our journey back to Sana'a via the dramatic cliff-top town of Kawkaban. One night at the Mercure hotel with dinner (B,D)

Today we head east through a region of arid mountains and dead volcanoes to Marib, the capital of the Sabeans on the edge of the desolate ‘Empty Quarter’. The capital of the legendary Queen of Sheba, we visit the remains of the ancient dam, which for 1400 years made the arid desert blossom and supported an advanced culture. We also visit the remains of the 8th century BC Temple of Bilqis (the local name for Sheba) and the ancient mud-brick city of Marib. Overnight with dinner at the Bilqis hotel (B,D)

Following the route of past travellers such as Thesiger and Stark we travel across the 'Empty Quarter' or Arrub al Khali, the vast section of open desert in northeastern Yemen. Travelling for most of the day, the varying dunned and flat landscape gradually changes shape to form the dramatic Wadi Hadhramaut, a fascinating region of Yemeni culture and tribal history. We arrive at Seiyun and spend two nights at the Al Howta hotel (B,D)

Seiyun is a fascinating place with stunning mud brick architecture, old mosques and a thriving souk area. We visit the former Sultan’s Palace with its excellent museum. Close to Seiyun is Tarim, the spiritual centre of the south. Over three hundred mosques and many libraries of great importance were here. Surrounding the Muhdar Mosque are the great houses of wealthy traders of the last century who made their fortunes in Indonesia. The 300 year old mud skyscrapers of Shibam are a listed UNESCO world heritage site and rightly so. The first sight of these immense ancient tower-houses is both overwhelming and humbling, surely a highlight of this fascinating country’s ancient past. We return to Seiyun for our second night stay (B,D)

Driving south today we head for the coastal town of Al Mukulla. En route we visit the mud house village of Al Hajjarain along the Wade Doan; the old trading route from the coast to the Hadhramaut. At Mukulla we have a tour around the old town with its mixed architectural styles of Yemeni, Arab and Indian. Overnight with dinner at the Holiday Inn (B,D)

We drive along the coast through dramatic volcanic landscapes to Bir Ali, once the site of the ancient harbour of Qena, the first port of the incense-trading route. We pause to stroll along the white sand beach and perhaps to take a swim in the azure waters. We continue to Habban, an ancient Jewish town of mud skyscrapers set against a dramatic mountain backdrop. An important centre for exquisite silverwork and commercial trade, Habban’s large houses is a testimony to its former wealth and affluence. We drive to Ataq and overnight at the Dubai hotel with dinner (B,D)

We continue to Aden, an important trading port for many centuries, linking Europe with the East. Many different peoples have ruled the city over the years, including the British who held Aden for 130 years following the construction of the Suez Canal. Despite its long history, the majority of Aden is modern, with one or two exceptions. The Aldarus Mosque was originally built in the 14th century, and the Cisterns of Tawila, which date back to the 1st century AD. Overnight at the Elephant Bay resort. Dinner at a traditional fish restaurant (B,D)

We continue north, climbing inland to the mountainous province of Taiz. Located at an altitude of 1400m Taiz enjoys a favourable climate. It was an important trade centre in medieval times linking caravans from Mokha to Sana'a. Superb mosques and palaces were constructed and water was brought from Mount Saber by aqueduct. Two nights at the Sofitel hotel with dinner (B,D)

This morning we visit the old walled quarter of Taiz, including the Al Ashrafiya mosque dating from the 13th century. Also the former Palace of Imam Ahmed, now housing an impressive museum crammed with memorabilia. In the afternoon we visit Al Janad, the site of Yemen’s oldest mosque and the mountain village of Jibla with its narrow streets and busy souk. We also stop to see the granary town of Ibb located on a hilltop at over 1800m. We return to Taiz and enjoy a traditional dinner in a local restaurant (B,D)

This morning we visit Mokka, an old coffee port that grew in importance during the 17th century, when fashionable coffee houses sprang up over Europe. At that time, Yemen had a virtual monopoly over coffee trade. Since Aden became the main port and other countries began to grow coffee, Mokka fell into decline and is now a bleak reminder of its former glory. Heading north we reach Zabid, an important centre for Islamic teaching with a remarkable past. Continuing via the market town of Beit al Faqih we reach Hodeida, Yemen’s main fish port and capital of the coastal Tihama region. Overnight at the Taj Awsan hotel. Dinner at a local fish restaurant (B,D)

Heading into the Haraz mountains, winding steeply through the hills and valleys we reach the hilltop town of Manahka at 2150m. The whole Haraz area is a beautiful example of rural Yemeni terrace culture. We walk to the nearby-fortified village of Al Hajjarah, its tightly packed houses literally clinging to the rock. Later we continue to Sana'a for our final evening to enjoy a folkloric show with dinner at a local restaurant. Overnight at the Mercure hotel (B,D)

A leisurely day in Sana'a to return to the souk for some final Christmas shopping or perhaps re-visit the fascinating National museum. We transfer to the airport in the late afternoon for our return flight with Qatar Airways, arriving early Saturday morning in London Heathrow (B)